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Hands sewing grey fabric with a needle and thread
Illustrative photo by Gabriel Frank on Pexels
Make and mend

Mend a small open seam by hand

Mend a split seam on a woven garment by hand. Align the original stitch line and overlap the intact stitches with a short row of backstitch.

Estimated time
25 min
Skill level
Beginner

Before you start

Check the split from the inside of the garment. This method works when the old stitches have broken and there is enough sound fabric on both sides to sew through. Match thread to the garment and remove only the loose threads that get in the way.

Tools and materials

  • Needle
  • Matching thread
  • Scissors
  • Sewing clips

Step-by-step instructions

  1. Inspect the split

    Turn the garment inside out and check that the fabric on both sides of the old stitch line is intact.

  2. Line up the edges

    Match the original seam lines and clip the layers together. Start a few stitches before the opening so the new thread overlaps the intact seam.

  3. Backstitch along the old line

    Take a small first stitch through both layers. Bring the needle up a stitch length ahead, then go back down through the hole at the end of the previous stitch. Repeat so the visible stitches meet end to end. Keep the tension even so the cloth does not gather.

  4. Finish past the split

    Sew a few stitches into the intact seam at the far end, knot the thread on the inside and trim it. Gently pull across the repair to check for gaps.

Check the result

Turn the garment right side out and look along the seam. Gently pull either side of the repair. The stitches should stay closed and the fabric should lie in the same line as the original seam.

Troubleshooting

If the cloth has ripped away from the seam, a small patch may be needed to give the stitches sound fabric to hold.